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Thread: Bow questions

  1. #1

    Bow questions

    Hi folks,

    Well...I bought a bow (hasn't come in yet) I've been looking at them for a couple years and just couldn't justify the cost for something I would need to learn from scratch. (I have an old recurve that I never used much).
    Anyway...Sprortmans guide had a Martin entry level bow for sale. It was 206 dollars plus I had a ten dollar coupon, so I got it for about $213 with shipping (that's where they get ya...17 bucks to ship!)
    Anyway lI'm really not looking for verification that I made a good purchase, I just though I'ld ask the experts what I should get for excessories to make this as usable as possible. The bow is the Martin threshold. 55 to 70# adjustment for 28 to 31" draw, 7.5" brace height, 35" axle to axle (I'm about a 28" draw). It comes with a drop away rest, a fiber optic site (no peep), a quiver, and two carbon arrows.
    What else would I need. I have plenty of time to practise since I'm going to use it for deer season. (you know like what are your favorite broadheads, what grain...what stabilizer would be best (if any)...that kind of stuff)

    Thanks for your time,



    Rick c.

  2. #2
    CTHS Supporter passinthru63's Avatar
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    Well the only thing missing from the kit would be a release, a stabalizer and strap and maybe some string silencers and ofcourse a Peep site. otherwise it sounds like you have everything else.

    You could add a string loop for the relase or connect direct to the string.

    You will need more arrows unless you like walking - back and forth to the target.

    Good luck with it. You may want to stop by a local pro shop and run in through the chronograph and paper tune it.

  3. #3
    CTHS Supportor Quigly's Avatar
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    My advice is to take it to a pro shop like Hall's or Andover Archery and let them set it up so it fits you. Are you going to be shooting with fingers or a release? You can have them install a peep and some string silencers. If you need a loop have them do that too, maybe even a kisser button(I love mine). As for broad heads, thats like picking your favorate car or music.... I like a fixed blade head. In my quiver I have Muzzy MX-4's, 100 gr. I know the places that I mentioned before will let you try different stablizers that will fit your needs(lenghts and weights). Happy Shooting!!!!!
    "Go afield with a good attitude,with respect for the wildlife you hunt and for the forest and fields in which you walk. Immerse yourself in the outdoor experience. It will cleanse your soul and make you a better person." FRED BEAR

  4. #4
    Cal45
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    Excellent advise from Quigly. Most of the stuff left is small stuff but it all needs to be set up with everything else. As for broadheads like he said it's like your favorite car or music. Everyone has their favorite. I use/used Wasp sst 125 gr. broadheads only because I needed broadheads and that was what Dick's had. Right now I don't see a need to change unless they don't fly well from my crossbow. The last deer I shot with one went through the shoulder and up through the top of the spine. No damage to the broadhead at all.

  5. #5
    Thanks for the advice guys...
    I know I "should" have a pro set up the bow...but I'm more of a "do-it-yourself" kind a guy. I set up everything I own to my liking...bikes, cars, guitars, boats...I feel It's the best way to really understand your equipment.
    I've done the research and think I can handle the task, but I still need to fill in the blanks...like what grain broadhead for say a 60# draw as opposed to a70# draw, or will the spring away rest that comes with the bow work fine for hunting from a ground blind (or should I get the wisker biscuit I've read so much about). These are the kinds of things you just can't get from a manufactures literature...everything they make is the best...right? (of course!)

    Do you think a bow shop would let me try a few stabilizers even if I didn't buy the bow from them? (or would it be asking too much).
    I've just recently been dealing with the guys at Center Sports...seem like nice folks (haven't talked to them about bowhunting yet though)

    Thanks again,

    Rick

  6. #6
    FOUNDER/Admin Andy's Avatar
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    Bill at center sports is a great guy and will help you out with any questions you have ,i go there for all my needs .
    Shoot a Coyote save a Fawn

  7. #7
    CTHS Supportor Quigly's Avatar
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    100 Gr. broad heads are a standered weight, you can get any make head out there in that size. For whitetails you don't need any bigger than that. Like I said before I don't care for mechanical broad heads, I won't say that they are no good but I dont like them. Go to Hall's and shoot for a while and ask them if you can try one, they will work with you. Some of the stabilizers you can only get form a dealer, like the Fuse Axium stabilizer. You don't know if you don't ask. Good luck...
    "Go afield with a good attitude,with respect for the wildlife you hunt and for the forest and fields in which you walk. Immerse yourself in the outdoor experience. It will cleanse your soul and make you a better person." FRED BEAR

  8. #8
    14 pointer 12 Ring's Avatar
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    You know I like to set up all my own stuff too. I hate to have to go to some else especially if it entails money. But with archery equipment and this being your first bow there is a lot of things to consider. You want to make sure you are set up properly and have a good fit as this is going to set up how you shoot for the rest of your life. A bad fit means bad form and bad form means bad shots. If you bite the bullet one time and have your bow adjusted correctly one time and have them show you how to shoot it will set up the basics in shooting and form to last you a life time. Once you start bad habits are very hard to break. Just my 2 cents.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by 12 Ring View Post
    You know I like to set up all my own stuff too. I hate to have to go to some else especially if it entails money. But with archery equipment and this being your first bow there is a lot of things to consider. You want to make sure you are set up properly and have a good fit as this is going to set up how you shoot for the rest of your life. A bad fit means bad form and bad form means bad shots. If you bite the bullet one time and have your bow adjusted correctly one time and have them show you how to shoot it will set up the basics in shooting and form to last you a life time. Once you start bad habits are very hard to break. Just my 2 cents.
    A very valid point...I always have this thought in the back of my mind that if I don't get it right, then I can still see an expert about it. But...If I've never used a compound bow before (always had a recurve kickin around) then I guess I wouldn't know bad form from good form...Thanks for the input.

    Rick

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Quigly View Post
    100 Gr. broad heads are a standered weight, you can get any make head out there in that size. For whitetails you don't need any bigger than that. Like I said before I don't care for mechanical broad heads, I won't say that they are no good but I dont like them. Go to Hall's and shoot for a while and ask them if you can try one, they will work with you. Some of the stabilizers you can only get form a dealer, like the Fuse Axium stabilizer. You don't know if you don't ask. Good luck...
    Okay...but I was under the impression that different draw weights required different broadhead weight for proper arrow flight...(or is it the shaft weight that makes the most difference)

    By the way...this is great stuff...thanks to all! I really appreciate your time and input!

    Rick

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