smokepole
09-19-2008, 03:22 PM
Black Powder Firearms
The term “black powder” is used to describe both a particular type of gunpowder and the type of firearm in which it is used.
Black powder, which is made from mixing potassium nitrate (also known as saltpeter), sulfur and charcoal, was the original gunpowder discovered and used by humans. Its first recorded use was in the year 1044 in China, and it remained the gunpowder of choice until smokeless powder and modern, enclosed rifle cartridges and shotshells (containing primer, smokeless powder, and the projectile[s] all in one unit) were developed in the 19th century.
Though outdated in technological terms, black-powder weaponry still enjoys widespread use in the modern world. Many states offer special or extended hunting seasons in which only black-powder firearms may be used. Some hunters employ these weapons specifically for that reason; others simply enjoy their nostalgic charm and the opportunity to harvest game in the same manner as their ancestors. Likewise, many shooting enthusiasts participate in black-powder or “historic” weapons activities and competitions.
For many people, “muzzleloaders” and black-powder firearms are synonymous terms and are commonly referred to as "primitive" firearms. In contemporary times, when people talk of black powder guns they are usually referring to muzzleloader rifles, though black powder shotguns and pistols are also used by hunters and shooters. These Revolutionary-era firearms get their name because the powder and projectiles are loaded down the muzzle—the open end of the barrel. Except for some recently introduced models that use smokeless powder, muzzleloaders are all fired with black powder gunpowder or a black powder substitute known as Pyrodex®, which comes in a pellet form that delivers better burning consistency and easier measuring and handling
Black powder firearms have several distinct characteristics when compared to modern firearms: range is typically limited to 100 yards or less; the caliber of the barrel and projectile(s) is usually much larger; a large plume of white smoke billows from the muzzle after firing; and reloading is required after every shot.
Black-Powder Rifle Anatomy
Many of the components of a black-powder rifle are much the same as a contemporary rifle, such as the butt stock, trigger and trigger guard, open sights and forestock. But that is where the similarities end. Barrels on muzzleloaders will be larger and thicker, usually twice the diameter of the projectiles. On older-style guns, the barrel may even be octagonal in shape, as opposed to cylindrical. And every muzzleloading firearm will have a ramrod stored underneath the barrel and removed when loading.
The most unique feature on any black-powder firearm is its ignition system, also known as a “lock.” There have been many types of locks over the years, each an improvement over the last.
# The matchlock was the first lock used with muzzleloaders. The match is a wick-like piece of material that is lit and lowered into a priming pan of loose priming gunpowder. Because the match is uncovered, these guns often fail during wet weather.
# The wheel lock was the first ignition system that used a spark as the igniting agent. The spark is produced by turning a serrated wheel mounted near the flash pan, then sent into the priming pan to ignite the powder. It has a cover that partially protects the spark from the elements.
# The flintlock was an ignition mechanism that employed a flint, which strikes a metal plate or “frizzen” to supply the spark.
# In the percussion lock, the hammer strikes a percussion cap (which sits on the nipple, and is similar to the primer of a modern cartridge), which causes a flash that travels through the nipple to ignite the powder charge.
# Modern “in-line” locks also employ a percussion cap, though it is placed inside the breech near the front of (or “in line” with) the barrel. In-line muzzleloaders most closely resemble modern rifles, and may or may not be classified as “primitive” weapons in some states.
Generally speaking, the flintlock and the percussion cap are the only muzzleloader ignition systems in regular use today.
Projectiles Used
The three projectiles commonly used in black-powder rifles are patched round balls, conical bullets or saboted bullets.
Patched round balls are usually made of soft lead; the patch, which is slightly bigger than the ball, is made of 100% cotton or linen. To load, the patch is placed over the muzzle, and then the ball is placed on top of the patch. The ball does not touch the inside of the barrel as the patch grips both the ball and the grooves of the barrel’s rifling. The patch serves multiple purposes: to clean the barrel, to make the ball easier to load, and to seal the gaps between the ball and the barrel. Because balls are perfectly spherical they are the slowest of the three projectiles, and they are accurate only to approximately 80 yards. They are, however, less expensive than the other two.
Conical bullets fit tightly into the barrel, and the lands of the barrel lightly engrave the bullet’s soft lead. It shoots farther than a patched ball but not as far as a saboted bullet, being accurate to approximately 100 yards.
Saboted bullets are comprised of a lightweight carrier (usually plastic) called a sabot that encases a hard bullet, often made of copper. The sabot fits tightly down the rifle and transfers the spin of the riffling to the bullet. Saboted bullets are the most ballistically sound of the three projectiles, accurate to approximately 150 yards.
How to Load a Black-Powder Rifle
1) Since a black-powder rifle must be reloaded after every shot, reloading is a skill at which every black-powder user should become proficient. The following equipment is needed: powder flask, powder measure (some hunters instead carry small vials of pre-measured charges with them), projectiles, patches, lube, and ramrod.
2) The first thing that goes into the muzzle is the powder. Pour powder into a measurer (never directly into the muzzle from the can), and then pour the powder into the barrel.
3) Next is the projectile. If a patched round ball is to be used, the patch goes over the muzzle and the ball goes on top of the patch; a bullet gets loaded tip forward. “Seat” the patched ball or bullet snugly down upon the powder with the ramrod. For consistency’s sake, many shooters have their ramrod marked at the level where the projectile is seated at the proper place. This can be very important, as over- or improperly loaded black powder rifles can be dangerous, even lethal, as they can explode.
4) Finally, place a percussion cap firmly on the nipple when you are ready to shoot. The weapon may now be cocked and fired. Remember that eye protection should always be worn when loading or shooting a black powder rifle.
Choosing a Powder
Shooters have the choice of using “old-fashioned” black powder or the modern substitute known as Pyrodex. Both work well, but there are differences. Pryodex is a little more expensive, leaves fewer residues in the barrel, but is just as corrosive as black powder. (If using a flintlock rifle, only black powder should be used).
Other things one should know about black powder:
# Black powder dealers are fairly scarce.
# One must be 21 years old to purchase black powder.
# By federal law, there is a 50-lb. limit for household storage.
# Black powder will last a very long time as long as it is kept dry and cool.
Choosing a Black Powder Rifle
In considering what black powder rifle to purchase, a few factors should be taken into account:
Ignition system—Most black powder rifles have percussion locks, either the old-fashioned side lock type or the newly developed (since the 1980s) in-line type. A small percentage of firearms have flintlocks, which are popular with re-enactors but are not very reliable and thus not popular with hunters. However, there are some states where flintlocks are the only kind of black powder rifle allowed during the primitive weapon season.
Caliber—Should match the game hunted. Small game such as squirrel and rabbit can be taken with .40 caliber rifles, while larger game such as coyote need .45 caliber or above. Big game requires at least a .50 caliber rifle. Also, one should check with local and state laws to see if there is an established minimum caliber for game hunted.
Rate of twist in the rifling—A 1-66” twist is best when using a patched round ball. This means that 66 inches of barrel is required for the rifling to make one complete revolution. A 1-48” twist can be used for a patched round ball or a conical bullet, and a 1-32” (which is the fastest twist) is best with a sabot.
Price—Black-powder rifles range from $100 to $1,500, with most falling between $250 and $500.
How to Clean a Black-Powder Rifle
Black powder is messy, smoky and corrosive. It draws moisture more than smokeless powder does, and because of this, black-powder barrels are more prone to rust. For these reasons, they need to be cleaned after every day of hunting or shooting—sometimes between shots.
First, remove the lock, nipple and barrel from the rifle. Place the barrel breech down into a bucket, then fill the bucket with enough water to cover the nipple hole by at least two inches. Place a wet cleaning patch on the end of the ramrod, then run it up and down the full length of the barrel. This action will create a vacuum that will pull water up into the barrel, then force it out of the nipple hole. At first this water will be black, and the hunter should continue moving the ramrod until the water coming out of the nipple hole is clean. Replace the water in the bucket with hot water and repeat the process.
After this, pull the barrel out of the bucket and run several dry patches through the barrel. When the patches start to come out clean, run a patch through covered with WD-40, followed by two more dry patches.
This should clean the barrel, and after the nipple is thoroughly cleaned the rifle is ready for reassembling.
Storing Black-Powder Rifles
When storing for a long period, black powder rifles should be oiled with a petroleum-based gun oil to prevent rusting. The gun should be stored muzzle-down so any condensation that forms inside will run out of the barrel. Then, since petroleum oil leaves a film, the rifle should be degreased when it is pulled out at the beginning of a new season.
Other Tips for Black Powder Hunters
# When it comes to firing the rifle, do everything the same way every time.
# Always squeeze the trigger instead of jerking it.
# Consult experienced black powder hunters or join a shooting club to get experience. Remember that every black powder rifle shoots a little differently, so you’ll need to “start over” if you get a new firearm.
The term “black powder” is used to describe both a particular type of gunpowder and the type of firearm in which it is used.
Black powder, which is made from mixing potassium nitrate (also known as saltpeter), sulfur and charcoal, was the original gunpowder discovered and used by humans. Its first recorded use was in the year 1044 in China, and it remained the gunpowder of choice until smokeless powder and modern, enclosed rifle cartridges and shotshells (containing primer, smokeless powder, and the projectile[s] all in one unit) were developed in the 19th century.
Though outdated in technological terms, black-powder weaponry still enjoys widespread use in the modern world. Many states offer special or extended hunting seasons in which only black-powder firearms may be used. Some hunters employ these weapons specifically for that reason; others simply enjoy their nostalgic charm and the opportunity to harvest game in the same manner as their ancestors. Likewise, many shooting enthusiasts participate in black-powder or “historic” weapons activities and competitions.
For many people, “muzzleloaders” and black-powder firearms are synonymous terms and are commonly referred to as "primitive" firearms. In contemporary times, when people talk of black powder guns they are usually referring to muzzleloader rifles, though black powder shotguns and pistols are also used by hunters and shooters. These Revolutionary-era firearms get their name because the powder and projectiles are loaded down the muzzle—the open end of the barrel. Except for some recently introduced models that use smokeless powder, muzzleloaders are all fired with black powder gunpowder or a black powder substitute known as Pyrodex®, which comes in a pellet form that delivers better burning consistency and easier measuring and handling
Black powder firearms have several distinct characteristics when compared to modern firearms: range is typically limited to 100 yards or less; the caliber of the barrel and projectile(s) is usually much larger; a large plume of white smoke billows from the muzzle after firing; and reloading is required after every shot.
Black-Powder Rifle Anatomy
Many of the components of a black-powder rifle are much the same as a contemporary rifle, such as the butt stock, trigger and trigger guard, open sights and forestock. But that is where the similarities end. Barrels on muzzleloaders will be larger and thicker, usually twice the diameter of the projectiles. On older-style guns, the barrel may even be octagonal in shape, as opposed to cylindrical. And every muzzleloading firearm will have a ramrod stored underneath the barrel and removed when loading.
The most unique feature on any black-powder firearm is its ignition system, also known as a “lock.” There have been many types of locks over the years, each an improvement over the last.
# The matchlock was the first lock used with muzzleloaders. The match is a wick-like piece of material that is lit and lowered into a priming pan of loose priming gunpowder. Because the match is uncovered, these guns often fail during wet weather.
# The wheel lock was the first ignition system that used a spark as the igniting agent. The spark is produced by turning a serrated wheel mounted near the flash pan, then sent into the priming pan to ignite the powder. It has a cover that partially protects the spark from the elements.
# The flintlock was an ignition mechanism that employed a flint, which strikes a metal plate or “frizzen” to supply the spark.
# In the percussion lock, the hammer strikes a percussion cap (which sits on the nipple, and is similar to the primer of a modern cartridge), which causes a flash that travels through the nipple to ignite the powder charge.
# Modern “in-line” locks also employ a percussion cap, though it is placed inside the breech near the front of (or “in line” with) the barrel. In-line muzzleloaders most closely resemble modern rifles, and may or may not be classified as “primitive” weapons in some states.
Generally speaking, the flintlock and the percussion cap are the only muzzleloader ignition systems in regular use today.
Projectiles Used
The three projectiles commonly used in black-powder rifles are patched round balls, conical bullets or saboted bullets.
Patched round balls are usually made of soft lead; the patch, which is slightly bigger than the ball, is made of 100% cotton or linen. To load, the patch is placed over the muzzle, and then the ball is placed on top of the patch. The ball does not touch the inside of the barrel as the patch grips both the ball and the grooves of the barrel’s rifling. The patch serves multiple purposes: to clean the barrel, to make the ball easier to load, and to seal the gaps between the ball and the barrel. Because balls are perfectly spherical they are the slowest of the three projectiles, and they are accurate only to approximately 80 yards. They are, however, less expensive than the other two.
Conical bullets fit tightly into the barrel, and the lands of the barrel lightly engrave the bullet’s soft lead. It shoots farther than a patched ball but not as far as a saboted bullet, being accurate to approximately 100 yards.
Saboted bullets are comprised of a lightweight carrier (usually plastic) called a sabot that encases a hard bullet, often made of copper. The sabot fits tightly down the rifle and transfers the spin of the riffling to the bullet. Saboted bullets are the most ballistically sound of the three projectiles, accurate to approximately 150 yards.
How to Load a Black-Powder Rifle
1) Since a black-powder rifle must be reloaded after every shot, reloading is a skill at which every black-powder user should become proficient. The following equipment is needed: powder flask, powder measure (some hunters instead carry small vials of pre-measured charges with them), projectiles, patches, lube, and ramrod.
2) The first thing that goes into the muzzle is the powder. Pour powder into a measurer (never directly into the muzzle from the can), and then pour the powder into the barrel.
3) Next is the projectile. If a patched round ball is to be used, the patch goes over the muzzle and the ball goes on top of the patch; a bullet gets loaded tip forward. “Seat” the patched ball or bullet snugly down upon the powder with the ramrod. For consistency’s sake, many shooters have their ramrod marked at the level where the projectile is seated at the proper place. This can be very important, as over- or improperly loaded black powder rifles can be dangerous, even lethal, as they can explode.
4) Finally, place a percussion cap firmly on the nipple when you are ready to shoot. The weapon may now be cocked and fired. Remember that eye protection should always be worn when loading or shooting a black powder rifle.
Choosing a Powder
Shooters have the choice of using “old-fashioned” black powder or the modern substitute known as Pyrodex. Both work well, but there are differences. Pryodex is a little more expensive, leaves fewer residues in the barrel, but is just as corrosive as black powder. (If using a flintlock rifle, only black powder should be used).
Other things one should know about black powder:
# Black powder dealers are fairly scarce.
# One must be 21 years old to purchase black powder.
# By federal law, there is a 50-lb. limit for household storage.
# Black powder will last a very long time as long as it is kept dry and cool.
Choosing a Black Powder Rifle
In considering what black powder rifle to purchase, a few factors should be taken into account:
Ignition system—Most black powder rifles have percussion locks, either the old-fashioned side lock type or the newly developed (since the 1980s) in-line type. A small percentage of firearms have flintlocks, which are popular with re-enactors but are not very reliable and thus not popular with hunters. However, there are some states where flintlocks are the only kind of black powder rifle allowed during the primitive weapon season.
Caliber—Should match the game hunted. Small game such as squirrel and rabbit can be taken with .40 caliber rifles, while larger game such as coyote need .45 caliber or above. Big game requires at least a .50 caliber rifle. Also, one should check with local and state laws to see if there is an established minimum caliber for game hunted.
Rate of twist in the rifling—A 1-66” twist is best when using a patched round ball. This means that 66 inches of barrel is required for the rifling to make one complete revolution. A 1-48” twist can be used for a patched round ball or a conical bullet, and a 1-32” (which is the fastest twist) is best with a sabot.
Price—Black-powder rifles range from $100 to $1,500, with most falling between $250 and $500.
How to Clean a Black-Powder Rifle
Black powder is messy, smoky and corrosive. It draws moisture more than smokeless powder does, and because of this, black-powder barrels are more prone to rust. For these reasons, they need to be cleaned after every day of hunting or shooting—sometimes between shots.
First, remove the lock, nipple and barrel from the rifle. Place the barrel breech down into a bucket, then fill the bucket with enough water to cover the nipple hole by at least two inches. Place a wet cleaning patch on the end of the ramrod, then run it up and down the full length of the barrel. This action will create a vacuum that will pull water up into the barrel, then force it out of the nipple hole. At first this water will be black, and the hunter should continue moving the ramrod until the water coming out of the nipple hole is clean. Replace the water in the bucket with hot water and repeat the process.
After this, pull the barrel out of the bucket and run several dry patches through the barrel. When the patches start to come out clean, run a patch through covered with WD-40, followed by two more dry patches.
This should clean the barrel, and after the nipple is thoroughly cleaned the rifle is ready for reassembling.
Storing Black-Powder Rifles
When storing for a long period, black powder rifles should be oiled with a petroleum-based gun oil to prevent rusting. The gun should be stored muzzle-down so any condensation that forms inside will run out of the barrel. Then, since petroleum oil leaves a film, the rifle should be degreased when it is pulled out at the beginning of a new season.
Other Tips for Black Powder Hunters
# When it comes to firing the rifle, do everything the same way every time.
# Always squeeze the trigger instead of jerking it.
# Consult experienced black powder hunters or join a shooting club to get experience. Remember that every black powder rifle shoots a little differently, so you’ll need to “start over” if you get a new firearm.